A good wall thickness for 3D printing of PLA is in the 1.2&#;2.2 mm range for high-strength results. For purely cosmetic shells, a thickness of 0.8 mm will often suffice. Because the ideal wall thickness is defined in terms of the wall's function within a model structure, some skill is required in selecting this property.
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The difference between PLA and ABS in 3D printing is in the part&#;s cosmetics and strength. ABS offers poorer cosmetics, poorer intra-layer fusion, lower UTS, and requires higher and more controlled nozzle temperatures than PLA. ABS also makes it harder to optimize print settings and requires more skill to use. However, the strength issue is more than compensated by the greater elasticity of ABS. ABS is much more resilient and shock/fracture-resistant. It is a good choice for structural strength components. The higher durability also makes ABS a great choice for moving parts that are exposed to bearing/rubbing surfaces. For more information, see our guide on PLA vs. ABS 3D Printing.
The difference between PLA and PLA+ is in the material properties. While both share most properties in common, the nature of the additional additives in PLA+ modifies a limited range of properties that may suit particular applications. For example, the addition of metal flakes or wood fibers can render a particular cosmetic result. For more information, see our guide on PLA vs. PLA+ 3D Printing.
The difference between PETG and PLA in 3D printing is in the properties. PETG offers some significant advantages over PLA in terms of strength, durability, water/chemical/UV tolerance, and transparency. These improvements come at a price, though. PETG is much more sensitive to print conditions. Its nozzle temperature requires more heat, which can be hard for the lowest-cost equipment to deliver. In addition, PETG will not deliver a high-quality surface finish and overall cosmetics. For more information, see our guide on PETG vs. PLA 3D Printing.
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Fused deposition modeling (FDM), also known as fused filament fabrication (FFF), is the most widely used form of 3D printing at the consumer level, fueled by the emergence of hobbyist 3D printers.
This technique is well-suited for basic proof-of-concept models, as well as quick and low-cost prototyping of simple parts, such as parts that might typically be machined.
Consumer level FDM has the lowest resolution and accuracy when compared to other plastic 3D printing processes and is not the best option for printing complex designs or parts with intricate features. Higher-quality finishes may be obtained through chemical and mechanical polishing processes. Industrial FDM 3D printers use soluble supports to mitigate some of these issues and offer a wider range of engineering thermoplastics or even composites, but they also come at a steep price.
As the melted filament forms each layer, sometimes voids can remain between layers when they don&#;t adhere fully. This results in anisotropic parts, which is important to consider when you are designing parts meant to bear load or resist pulling.
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